By Penny Pawl, UC Master Gardener of Napa County
Winter isn't over, but in my garden it feels like spring has sprung. This is my favorite time of year. I discovered a bearded iris in bloom today, two months early and a great surprise.
The first thing on my to-do list in February is to weed. The weeds loved those early rains and now it is warming up. They need to be removed before they go to seed.
One weeding tool that works well for me is a weed torch or flame weeder made specifically for gardening. It uses a propane tank and a wand. You wave the flame over the weeds to kill them. It works best on small, young weeds growing in hardscape or gravel, and it doesn't damage the soil as many commercial herbicides may do.
Don't use a weed torch during dry spells or on hot, windy days. Keep the flame away from dead or brown material or flammable items like fencing. Wear sturdy shoes and have water nearby to stop any possible flare-ups. Some areas have bans on flame weeders, so check with your local fire department before investing in the equipment.
It's not too late to do sheet composting for weed control. You can find a lot of information about this method online. Basically, you are smothering the weeds by covering them with sheets of cardboard. If you want to plant something before the cardboard has decomposed, just cut a hole in it and dig your planting hole.
One year I experimented by planting half of my broccoli seedlings in soil covered by cardboard and the other half in uncovered soil. The plants in soil covered by cardboard did better.
If you haven't already done so, it's time to prune roses, fruit trees and other shrubs and trees. You can control growth better if you prune before the leaves and flowers come out in the spring.
Plant any bare-root trees and roses now. Remember to water them as they settle into their new home.
We know that drought conditions may continue so keep that in mind when planning your garden this year. Look online for information about the water-wise French intensive method of gardening. If you are planting a new landscape, consider California native plants, which tend to be drought resistant.
Snails and slugs are just beginning to appear so watch for their damage. You can purchase commercial products to control them or try some more homespun methods. One tactic is to lay a board down where you see damage. Snails and slugs like to crawl underneath, so the next day you can stand on the board and crush them. You can also pick them off by hand if you go out at night with a flashlight.
Snails and slugs are hermaphrodites, which means they all lay eggs. They lay about 80 eggs four times a year, so it's important to keep them under control.
If you have plants in pots, now it the time to repot them. Use fresh soil and trim the old roots to make room for new ones. Try to match the potting soil to the needs of the plants. Most container plants need soil that drains well.
It's also a good time to move any plant that's in the wrong place in your garden. To make sure the top and the root ball are in proportion, trim both back when you transplant.
Start seeds for summer vegetables and other plants in February and March. I use a commercial seedling mix for this process. It is especially designed for newly emerging plants.
Be sure to read the seed packets for sowing instructions. Some seeds take longer to sprout than others and some need to be planted deeper than others. Keep your newly planted seeds by a sunny window. If you have a heat lamp or a seed-heating pad, they will appreciate that special treatment and sprout more quickly. Keep the soil damp but not soggy to prevent seeds from rotting before they sprout. You can also make a mini hothouse by inverting a large bottle over your seedling pot.
If the dry weather continues, monitor your in-ground plants and container plants. If the soil is dry, it's time to water. I have noted that some of my pots have dried out even though it has been cool this winter. Also, if we have a hard freeze, plants will survive better if they have moisture. I know this from experience.
Food Growing Forum: Napa County Master Gardeners will host this forum on “Planning & Record Keeping and Crop Rotation” on Sunday, February 13, from 3 pm to 4 pm. Register to receive the Zoom link at https://ucanr.edu/2022FoodForumFeb.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will hold a workshop on “Weed ID, Frost Protection and Drip Irrigation” on Saturday, February 26, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., at Las Flores Learning Garden, 4300 Linda Vista Avenue, Napa. Register: https://bit.ly/3J1QFl8
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will hold a workhop on “How to Improve Home Vineyard Soil Health for Grape Quality and Climate Change” on Saturday, February 26, from 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Whether the workshop will be in person or via Zoom is still being determined.
You must register to attend. Registrants will receive an email a few days before the event with the workshop location or Zoom link. Register at https://ucanr.edu/2022HomeVineyardSoilFeb
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will hold a workhop on “Your Soil Can Save Us! Garden Soil and Climate Change” on Sunday, February 27, from 1 pm to 3 pm, at Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Details: https://napamg.ucanr.edu
Got Garden Questions? Contact our Help Desk. The team is working remotely so please submit your questions through our diagnosis form, sending any photos to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org or leave a detailed message at 707- 253-4143. A Master Gardener will get back to you by phone or email.
For more information visit https://napamg.ucanr.edu or find us on Facebook or Instagram, UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
By David Layland, U. C. Master Gardener of Napa County
For gardeners like me, it's a dangerous time of year to walk through a nursery. It's bare-root cane berry season and there is so much to choose from. I may not “need” another cane berry plant, but I'm sure there's an empty spot in my garden that wants to produce blackberries or raspberries.
For bare-root plants, nurseries dig them up when the plants are dormant. They shake or wash any soil from the roots and then typically pack them in a material that retains moisture, such as shredded paper, sphagnum moss or wood shavings.
A bare-root cane berry plant is not a thing of beauty so nurseries provide eye-catching color posters that show the plant at its peak and what the mature berry looks like. One glance and you're salivating, remembering how tasty fresh blackberries and raspberries are in summer. Next, you notice that one bare-root cane berry plant costs less than two pints of berries from the farmers market. The hook has been set.
As with choosing real estate, the three most important considerations when planting cane berries are location, location and location. Berries like well-draining soil, so choose a site where water does not accumulate. Berries do best in full sun. Less sun equals less fruit.
Berries require support such as a fence or trellis. Assuming you have a fence, look for a spot along the fence line that meets the other two requirements. Berries do not like to be planted where Solanaceae-family crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and potatoes) grew previously. Soil-borne diseases such as Verticillium wilt may remain in the soil and affect berries.
Check the pH of the soil at your chosen site; berries like it slightly acidic. If the pH is between 5.5 and 6.5, you're good to go.
If you have heavy clay soil, as I do, consider planting in a raised bed. Cane berries do not like wet feet; a raised bed will improve drainage. You can create raised beds by mounding the soil 8 to 10 inches high and about 2 feet wide at the top. Raised beds can be as long as you like.
Before planting, incorporate a generous amount of organic matter. Digging in three to four inches of compost will improve aeration, drainage and water-holding capacity.
If your soil is acidic (pH less than 5.5), you can add lime to decrease the acidity. If your soil is alkaline (pH greater than 6.5), you can dig in finely ground sulfur to increase acidity. Local nurseries have these products. Make sure you read and follow package directions.
You should plant bare-root cane berries within a few days of purchase. If you are not ready, protect the roots from drying out by “heeling them in.” To do this, dig a hole about twice as deep as the roots are long and place the plant in the hole on a 45-degree angle. Next, cover the roots with sand or soil and gently tamp down to eliminate air pockets. Keep moist until you are ready to plant.
Blackberries, raspberries or both? Thorned or thornless? To me this is a no-brainer. Thornless plants won't wound you when you're pruning or harvesting. I have harvested thorny wild blackberries and my hands and arms were not a pretty sight.
Depending on the cultivar, blackberries ripen between June and August; raspberry cultivars ripen between June and September. Choose several different cultivars to have berries ripening all summer.
Before planting, soak the roots in water for an hour. Dig a hole large enough for the entire root system—at least three to four inches deep and approximately two feet wide. Place the plant in the hole, spreading out the roots and covering them with soil. Do not leave any roots exposed. Place a stake next to the plant and tie the canes to it. Lastly, water the plant and then cover the soil with mulch to retain moisture.
Now, finally, you can sit back and relax. In a year or two, you'll be enjoying a summer filled with home-grown blackberries and raspberries.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Growing Berries” on Saturday, January 20, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Imagine stepping out into the garden and returning with bowls of berries, freshly harvested and ready to eat. Now imagine that you have so many that you have to give them to friends or freeze them for later. This could easily be your garden. Learn about plant selection, soil preparation, planting, care and maintenance, and pests and disorders--everything you need to know to turn your dream into a reality. Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in/Walk-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment)
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.